AN ADMIRABLE MALT :: GLEN MORAY 21 YEAR PORTWOOD :: with Interview from Iain Allen
In a sea of options, we are spoilt for choice when it comes to whisky. There are what seems to be thousands upon thousands of options out there, and it can at times be overwhelming. When I first started drinking whisky, I was green and willing to try anything regardless of age, ABV, or where it came from. I wanted to explore every option, and keep an open mind, for educations sake. Fast forward three years and some change, and I can not honestly say I have that exact same mentality. Yes, I still want to try everything, but I’m spoiled. I have had such a plethora of drams that have been so fantastic, that they have created a set of standards for my palate. Sadly, it is easy to overlook some great whiskies due to this. And I have. Glen Moray has fallen prey to that, as have many other whiskies, and I’ve learned that it is quite unfair to the brands and to myself. I do truly believe that a developed palate, and an open mind can work hand in hand, and I’m grateful for Glen Moray for quickly, and graciously reminding me of that. I would have missed out on a lovely whisky, and an enriching experience, which I would have been very sad to miss.
When I was approached by Glen Moray to taste their 21 Year Portwood finish, I was honestly intrigued. It was bottled at 46.3 %, meeting that “palate standard” on ABV, finished in ex-tawny port casks, and non chill filtered! Yes, yes, and yes please! When my bottle arrived, it was in a massive box. Like a box the size the dog food for my 120 pound French Mastiff comes in. An awfully big box for 1 bottle of whisky! I was very surprised to see that it wasn’t just one bottle of whisky, it was five! Along with the 21 Year, was the entire Elgin Classic range, which I’ll touch on in a little bit.
I set them on the shelves, and a few days went by and it was time to crack open the 21 Year. I had to wait for a night that Jorell was home, because my rule is that I never taste a new whisky without him. I do this because its just so much more enjoyable to drink a new whisky with a loved one. Plus we can bat around tasting notes and opinions and have a good time. The packaging on the box for the 21 Year is lovely, but simple. With 3 soft sides, and a wooden pull out drawer so to speak, out slides the bottle in the classic Glen Moray labeling. I feel as though they haven’t tried to be too hip and trendy with their packaging, which I thoroughly appreciate. I poured us each a glass, and with equal amounts of delight and dismay butterflies fluttering around in my belly, we smelled it. And we both looked at each other with that silent look of approval. Then out came the notes: “Tobacco, and tea and ripe red fruits! Is that maybe pumpkin bread?” Whew! Ok delight butterflies are fluttering more. Then we tasted it. And the rest of those dismay butterflies quickly left. It was not what I expected in the least, and that brought me great joy. I love when a whisky surprises me, thats indeed how I fell into this business, and this did just that. (Keep reading for full review).
Over the course of the next few weeks, I kept tasting it, just to be sure I really liked it. I gave it to my mum in law, who is slowly getting into whisky (she’s a gin head, thanks to you know who!) and she really enjoyed it. I spoke with my friend Johnny from Whisky & Donuts, while out on the town, and we both agreed that it is an underrated, deliciously easy to drink whisky. I decided, okay, I like this, I want to write about this, but not just about the whisky. I want more than that. So I emailed the lovely Brittany, who sent the bottles to me, and said “Hey, this is great stuff, let’s do this! Ohh, can I interview Graham Coull, their Master Distiller”? She then informed me that Graham would not be available (we now know he has gone to Dingle, and Glen Moray has welcomed Dr. Kirstie McCallum as their head of whisky creation…VERY EXCITING!) ,and so she offered to let me interview Iain Allen, their Global Brand Ambassador, which I happily took her up on.
Heres how that went down…
Please introduce yourself and your role with Glen Moray! How long have you been in this industry, and what is your history in it?
Hi Jenna, nice to e-meet you! My name is Iain Allan and I am the Glen Moray Visitor Centre Manager and Global Brand Ambassador. I started with Glen Moray in August 2005 and prior to that I was the Visitor Centre Manager at The Macallan.
Glen Moray has been at the forefront of innovation in the whisky industry from their start in 1897. From converting a brewery into a distillery, using local barley for their first run, and aging and finishing in wine casks. Do you feel this passion for experimentation still remains into today? Is Glen Moray still pushing to be innovative in their releases?
Glen Moray has always been a very innovative distillery, but little was known of this. It’s only in recent years that this has really come to the fore with our releases. The Wine Mellowed range brought out in the 1990’s highlighted the versatility of the Glen Moray spirit, now we are really pushing on with new wine varietals used for finishing- Glen Moray Cabernet Cask Finish. Also, sometimes controversial with the likes of Glen Moray Cider Cask Project. We have also recently released the new Glen Moray Rhum Agricole Finish which is a really interesting collaboration with St James Distillery in Martinique (UK RELEASES). These releases showcasing the breadth of different cask styles we have hidden within the Glen Moray warehouses.
Can you explain the Classics Collection vs. The Heritage Collection? Do you feel that the Classics are geared more towards bartenders to experiment with, and The Heritage Collection is more for the enthusiast?
The Classic Collection is a range of whiskies created to hit various points on the flavor spectrum, but to do so in a manner which is really accessible (both from a flavor and price perspective). This has, indeed, led to it being adopted by bartenders to create different cocktails and we have embraced this by recently developing Glen Moray bitters that help to compliment the flavors in these whiskies. Whilst not available in market, our sales teams are using them to help engage with mixologists and bartenders in the UK. The Heritage Range (which can still be used to make some amazing cocktails) is a range of whiskies showcasing the more traditional style of Glen Moray. In particular, I like to think of the 12yr as being our flagship single malt which showcases, not only a typical Glen Moray, but also it is a great example of a traditional Speyside Whisky.
In the distillery’s 120+ year history, there have only been 5 Master Distillers. Can you speak to the importance of this very low number, and why it has been beneficial to the end product?
This has been important to us to as it has meant Glen Moray has been a “steady ship” and helped to keep consistent quality throughout the years. We have recently taken on Kirstie McCallum as our Head of Whisky Creation and her knowledge will help to ensure that the quality of the liquid is even more at the forefront of what we do.
There has been quite a bit a chatter about Glen Moray being a “budget whisky”, being readily available for very low prices, with many whiskies bottled at 40%. What are your thoughts on this? Will we see more over 40% bottlings in the future?
I like to think of our pricing as “accessible”. I often find that those who say we are too cheap are also those that complain other whiskies are becoming too expensive! I am really comfortable with our pricing as it means that most of what we sell is being drank and enjoyed and not bought to be an expensive ornament on a shelf. We also have a wide range and products like our 18yr, which is bottled at 47.3% abv non chill filtered, meaning we have something for everyone. Our 21yr is also being bottled at higher abv and there will be other additions to the range that do the same.
If I recall 40% of your whisky produced is set aside for aged single malt, and the remainder of the whisky goes to blending for Label 5. Do you see the distillery cranking up the percentage for aged single malts in the future?
We are always laying down stocks for aging and along with adding to the Classic range of non-age statement whiskies, we are also developing the age range with a 30yr due to join the collection next year.
Speaking of blends, many believe blending is the future of whisky. What is your option on the future of Single Malt Scotch, and does the distillery have a plan in place to evolve with the times, if the focus on single malts begins to change?
I think variety is the spice of life and I hope both categories continue to flourish. As a company we offer a great range of blends (with Cutty Sark joining the portfolio last year) and Glen Moray offering a wide range of Single Malts. In the wider world I love the fact companies are striving to keep both sectors fresh with new products, as a whisky drinker I am loving the times we are in.
I recently tasted the 21 Year Portwood, and it delivered lovely rich tobacco notes I had not ever gotten in a Glen Moray dram. It is a beautifully delicate, yet flavorful whisky, where I felt the story of Glen Moray really translate into what I was tasting. What whisky in the Glen Moray portfolio would you say really embodies the true DNA of the distillery?
The 21yr is a very welcome addition to the family, Glen Moray always works so well in a port cask. For me, if I had to choose one to take away with me it would have to be the 18yr. I love the spicy character that comes through with the use of 1st fill bourbon casks, but it keeps that lovely creamy, sweetness that is the Glen Moray DNA.
Now, for my review. Again, this whisky really did catch me off guard, but I love that. Its not a whisky that will fly you to the moon and back, but its a whisky that shouldn’t be overlooked.
The Deets:
Glen Moray 21 Year Portwood Finished Single Malt
46.3 %
Non-chill filtered, natural color
SPR:$ 180
4,000 bottles released globally
Aged for 19 years in first fill ex-bourbon (by previous MD, Ed Dodson), and then moved into ex-tawny port casks from Porto Cruz (by Graham Coull) for the remaining two years. So its the product of 2 Master Distillers!
NOSE: Think subtle oolong and ripe red fruits (and Gushers!) wrapped in a lovely wisp of Tawny Port. Baby waves of baking spice.
PALATE: I get much more of the port on the palate than the nose. Creamy mouthfeel of bittersweet chocolate and tobacco notes, with malty undertones. Sweet fruits erupt here and there!
FINISH: Medium finish, leaving behind a trail of that rich port.
OVERALL: Friends, this is just a classically good Speyside whisky. I don’t know how else to really put it. It is well done and has great flavor depth, but not too rich or overwhelming. You can taste the distillate and the port doesn’t mask it. Its very easy to drink, and quite enjoyable to boot!
This has been a month long process, this review. I never like to review a whisky on the first go round, as they continue to evolve and take shape. Plus, my palate is on a different level each day depending on what I shove down my gullet. I have been enjoying this whisky every single time I have poured it (as you can see from the fill line), and feel good about sharing that with you all. As far as the Classic range goes, I haven’t had a chance to sit with them all, but from what I have experienced so far with the Chardonnay and Port Cask finishes, they are great buys, especially for someone using them for cocktails or just getting into finished whiskies. I think they are a great way to teach your palate to pick up notes of Port, Chardonnay, Cabernet, and Sherry, without breaking the bank. I don’t see them as “budget whiskies” I see them as readily accessible tools to help you learn from, and to also enjoy. Use them! These all are in the $25-$30 range (here in CA)! I recently hosted a whisky tasting for 50, and took the Chardonnay and Port Cask finishes with me, and they were met with great enthusiasm and feedback. In short, I am saying don’t sleep on this distillery. While they may not have the marketing budgets and exposure of some of the bigger brands, they do make whiskies that are not only accessible, but worthy of being here in this space. Plus, their single cask bottlings are fantastic, so watch for those!
It is so easy to get jaded, in this space. Trust me, I have opinions that I have to sometimes check myself on. I’m not saying its a bad thing to know what you like, and how you like it, but for me personally, I don’t ever want that to limit me, where I overlook some great whiskies that lead to great moments. I can have a developed and judgmental palate, and be open and fair to all whiskies at the same time. I would have overlooked this on the shelves, had it not been sent to me. I would have also missed an opportunity to taste something delicious, and missed an opportunity to learn about a distillery that has been doing this whole whisky making thing for over 120 years, and for that I am most grateful. If you see it out and about friends, give it a whirl and let me know what you think!
Massive thank you to Iain Allen for taking the time to answer my questions, to Glen Moray for the lovely whisky and to Brittany at Prestige Beverage Group for sending these to me, and for being the most responsive and awesome connector between me and the brand. This has been a treat!
Glen Moray Distillery
Bruceland Road, Elgin IV30 1YE
http://www.glenmoray.com/
Find and follow them on Instagram here and here !
FULL DISCLOSURE:
I am contacted daily by brands asking to send me product, mostly in exchange for a review. While I turn down many bottles and trips, I do feel so lucky and flattered for the opportunities, every single time. For bottle reviews, I respond mostly (few exceptions, and I mean very few) with the same sort of response. It’s something like this: “Thank you so much for this generous offer. Feel free to send it along, but I do have some rules. I don’t do automatic reviews in exchange for product. If I don’t enjoy the whisk(e)y, don’t believe in the mission, I won’t post about it.” I want to be honest and upfront in regards to how I work, because at the end of the day, its pretty damn awesome that brands WANT to send me their products, and I owe that to them to be honest. This is the hard work of thousands of people trying to feed their families and flourish in their own career space. When I was approached by Glen Moray to taste their 21 Year Portwood finish, I was honestly intrigued, and agreed to have them send it to me, but would have never posted about it, if I didn’t believe in it. Yes, the whiskies were free. Yes, I was paid for it. Yes, you can still get free whisky and be paid and be 100% authentic and honest. And thats what you are getting here folks. I have worked hard and honestly here, and this community and the people in it are so important to me. I don’t want that to ever change, and so I will continue to be open and honest in my reviews and in my interactions here.
*All photos (except of Iain) are my own. Words and review is 100% authentic.
